Zaragoza is one of Spain’s hidden treasures for its authentic tapas scene, so delicious small plates definitely guided us to the city. However, the big vintage plates we found were equally memorable.
For those, like me, who delight in the thrill of a vintage find, the most rewarding cities feel like you are treading your own path rather than following crowds. Aside from the rising concerns that come with overtourism, places with restaurants, shops and markets that primarily serve locals are a gem to find because here, the joy of the treasure hunt survives.
Depending on your commitment to vintage shopping in Zaragoza, you may want to avoid a traditional weekend in the city because I found that many of the antiques and vintage shops were closed on weekends. Other shops had shorter Saturday opening hours, which made it harder to visit several, especially as we made the medieval palace and lunch our priorities. I have no regrets though, the Aljafería Palace is an architectural wonder, and our lunch at Casa Martana was one of the most leisurely sit-down experiences we had, as most food was enjoyed standing at a tapas counter in El Tubo or perched on a bar stool.
A long weekend consuming plates and perching in Zaragoza and Madrid.
Zaragoza was a quick jaunt (less than 2 hours) from Madrid by train.
Ana Lacoma Antiques
C. del Castillo, 3, 50004 Zaragoza, Spain
The first vintage Spanish plate I found also has a connection to the palace. Ana Lacoma was an antiques shop on my list of places to visit, but having neglected my map while enjoying our first venture out in daylight, we discovered Ana’s shop the old-fashioned way—drawn in by her window display en route to the palace. Thanks to my husband’s basic grasp of Spanish and Google Translate, we chatted with Ana and learnt that she had acquired and restored an old bunker from the 1808 War of Independence that connected to the Aljafería Palace. Once used to defend against Napoleon’s sieges, the space is now decorated with antiques, paintings, and curiosities, having been transformed into her shop, restoration workshop, and interior design studio.
Ana Lacoma’s bunker of beauties and the Aljafería Palace
This is the ‘70s Talavera folk-art plate we bought from Ana’s collection. We’ll hang it in our kitchen.
Mostly staring down or up at the elaborate floors, gilded wooden and painted ceilings in the Aljafería Palace
The Plaza de San Bruno Antiques Market
Pl. de San Bruno, 50001 Zaragoza, Spain
High on my list of beautiful market squares, the Plaza de San Bruno Antiques Market sits next to La Seo de Zaragoza, a cathedral that reflects the city’s blend of Roman, Mudéjar, and Baroque beauty. This market is one of the reasons I wanted to be in Zaragoza over a weekend, as every Sunday morning vintage stalls, antiques, art, and local jewellery makers fill the square.
As we walked-up to the market, my husband said, “imagine if we were to find another Talavera plate,” and behold, halfway around our first turn of the square, we spotted one. We saw a few other Talavera plates at the antiques shop the day before, but they were decorated with different animals so although it was tempting to buy a pair, we resisted. It felt perfect when we found this one, also depicting birds. And with that, I’ll leave you with an analogy for vintage hunting and life, sometimes you didn’t get it because there is something else meant for you waiting.
Our second ‘70s Talavera folk-art plate
I hope whatever is waiting for you includes a visit to Zaragoza one day.
©Photographs Reclaimed Woman
Story Type: Columnist
